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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.